In the Works...

My Penance For Neglect

Yes, I confess, I have been a neglectful blogger, but it doesn't mean I haven't been busy... Lots of paperwork, classes to prepare and teach, and most importantly, prepping images for an upcoming "new release" -- I tend to get on a roll with this activity, and become completely absorbed and all-consumed...

I don't want you to think, however, that I've forgotten those of you who faithfully drop by to check out what's "in the works," so even though I can't share what I'm currently doing, here's a look-see at the Valentine I gave my hubby last week -- Didn't dare post it at the last tea party for fear the intended recipient would decide to visit, and spoil his surprise...

What I really like about this card are its possibilities... a Valentine to be sure, but think about weddings or anniversaries... Keep the metallic ink, paper layer, and ribbon, while changing the base color to almost anything, and you've got "easy elegance," with maximum appeal. 

Cardworks:
Stamps - Heart Collage and WD-28Vert. Love Comes
Ink - Brilliance Galaxy Gold
Pearl-Ex (gold) - applied while ink is wet
Scoring Tool - after script has been stamped, smaller red layer is scored 1/4" from each edge
1/8" Eyelet Tool (hole-maker), or Long-reach Punch -  used to make hole for the ribbon AFTER all layers are attached.  Caution:  When hole-punching, make sure to "open" card, and punch though layers and front flap only. 
Other - Fun Foam, 1/2" Sheer Ribbon, and Charm (keys)

The "how to" is really just basic stamping, inking and layering, but the real "fun" comes in by incorporating the fun foam -- found in almost any store carrying "kids" crafting supplies.  It comes in flat, spongy sheets, and is available in oodles of colors.  When working with fun foam:

• Work on a flat, smooth, heat-resistant surface.
• Cut a  piece of the foam slightly larger than the stamp you will be using.
• Use a heat tool, and really "warm" each side of foam, then concentrate a little more heat on the area you want to impress... foam may change color, and should start to curl slightly.
• Immediately impress a dry stamp* into the heated foam -- press firmly, and hold for a slow count of ten. 
• As foam cools, stamp will release easily.
• Allow foam to cool completely. 
• If not happy with the impression, re-heat foam, and re-impress.
• Cooled foam can be cut, inked, glittered, etc. as desired, BUT make sure to use only air-drying products - DO NOT heat set.
• Fun foam can be attached to other surfaces, using a variety of adhesives -- permanent, double-sided tape was used on this card, but a small amount of tacky glue also works well.
• For all products (inks, glue, etc.), remember fun foam is porous, and as such, takes extra drying time.

* When impressing fun foam an inked stamp can also be used, but have the image all "inked and ready" before heating the foam.

If you've never stamped on fun foam, give it a try.  It really is a lot of "fun," and there's an added bonus... The stamped creations are flat and extremely lightweight -- perfect for sending through the mail.

Lovin' This Silhouette

I'm really supposed to be on a working "vacation" re-organizing the smART workspace instead of stamping and blogging, but Trish's tea party from last week got me playing with the bird silhouette image from WD-198 Small Things, and I've found it really difficult to stop... Too many "what ifs."

You know... 

What if I use that color instead of this one? 
What if I pair it with that saying? 
What if I incorporate a different punch?
What if I add embellishments?

I think I've come up with either seven or eight variations so far, and I've had a ball doing it.

Here's one of my finished what ifs:

The cardstock is sand, the saying from WD-90 All Creatures, the flower punch (PBS1), and the bling stones in the flower centers are "Nail Jewels" from the local dollar store.

I thought, however, besides sharing the card, I would also share some of my tried and true tips for working with silhouette stamps because over the years, I've heard at least a dozen stampers say how they love the look of silhouette images, but won't buy them due to a lack success in stamping with them...

Yes, I agree, using a silhouette stamp can be a tad tricky, especially if you think of it as just another stamp, but if you alter your perception a bit, and equate silhouette images with mastering a technique, I think success is more easily achieved:   

Before using a silhouette stamp for the first time, rub an eraser all over the rubber's surface, then brush off the eraser "crumbs," and wash the stamp.
     This helps remove any "pressing residue" which can interfere with ink adhesion --I know some people say to use fine grit sandpaper, or a nail file for this, but beware,these methods may mar the rubber.
     My favorite eraser?  Magic Rub by Sanford.

Use a "juicy" ink pad.
     Many times, if I know I want to do silhouette stamping, I automatically re-ink my pad...

Use smooth cardstock.
     One matte cardstock that works very well is Beckett Expression Cover from Marco's Paper.  (Marco's shipping charges are on the hefty side, so you might want to check and see if this paper is carried by your LSS.)

Apply the ink to the rubber as heavily and evenly as possible.
     Tilting the inked stamp toward a light source should show how well this is being accomplished. 

When putting the stamp to the paper, hold for a full count of ten.
     Remember, doing this gives the paper time to absorb, or "suck" the ink off the rubber.

Before stamping on your project, do a test image on a scrap of the same type of paper you will be using --
    Results vary ink to ink, paper to paper... Change one of these variables, and the outcome might be different.
     Doing a test image also acquaints you with areas of the image which may require more or less pressure.

For some inks, a small paintbrush (or even a cotton swab) can be used to fill in "voids."
     Stroke the brush's tip along the ink pad, dab off excess ink onto scrap, then use small circular motions, and apply ink to the stamped image where needed.
     This takes a bit of practice, and a measure of patience because it has to be done slowly, using almost a dry-brush technique... If you apply too much ink at a time, the image will end up looking "patchy."
     Black inks that work really well for this - Versafine, and Brilliance.

Give the stamped image time enough to dry before handling (or heat set).
     You've applied lots of ink to a rather small area, so you can't expect it to dry as quickly as usual.  If handled too soon, your fingers will inevitably pick up some of the ink, then leave unwanted smudges.
 
Practice... practice...practice.
     Remember, the expert at anything was once a beginner who practiced.

Concerning Postage - Part 1 - Card Protection Tip

As you know, earlier this year, the USPS increased their rates and revamped their guidelines/regulations.  All the changes have been met with lots of questions... lots of confusion... and a fair amount of unhappiness.

For instance, in addition to actual weight, "bumpy, lumpy, thick (1/4" or greater), rigid, or square," now cost extra...

Why?

Answer #1  Because of the need to have envelopes zip through the automated machines -- bumpy, lumpy, thick, rigid, and square clog up those machines -- slowing down the process and requiring manpower intervention.  Since "time is money," the USPS is really just passing on the added cost. They actually call it a "non-machinable surcharge." BTW, requesting hand-canceling does not eliminate the problem because chances are a hand-canceled envelope will still be run through a sorting machine.

Answer #2 (as explained by my ever-patient postal person, Jerry)   Envelope rates are meant for just that -- FLAT envelopes... For years people have been putting package-worthy material into envelopes, and expecting envelope rates, so now, the USPS has defined a package by its qualities -- "bumpy, lumpy, thick, non-rectangular," etc. so even if it's in an envelope, the piece is assigned the package rate...

Okay, understanding the underlying reasoning helps, but I still resent paying "extra" just because I love brads, eyelets, charms, rhinestones, bows, and dimension.  After all, regardless of the "bump," it's a card, NOT a package!

Having worked on getting a handle on all the new considerations since May, I've maintained there just has to be a win-win situation out there... streamlined for the USPS, and inexpensive for me...

I used to cut a card-size piece of bubble wrap to protect my card front, but with the new regs, that makes the envelope too thick, so I stopped.

For a while, I tried inserting a simple piece of cardstock.  I wasn't 100% happy with this mode of protection because it still felt pretty "bumpy" to me, but envies weighing up to 1 ounce made it into the postal system on 41 cents...

Then I received a card utilizing the same "cardstock" protective method... Sadly, it arrived torn (a brad had gone right through the cardstock and the envelope).  Obviously, cardstock alone doesn't fair so well in the machines... Time for another idea... BTW, I've also had a card someone cleverly turned inside out, "tear through" (it is, after all the same concept).

Now, my new, so-far-so-good way to protect dimensional cards w/out clogging machines, or adding extra postage is with a card-sized piece of cereal/cracker box weight chipboard --

Here's why it works:

• it's heavy enough to really smooth out the "bumps"
• it's relatively lightweight (a standard A-2, 4.25" x 5.5" piece adds only 0.2 oz. to the weight of the envie)
• it's flexible enough to pass the "rigid" test

Additionally, it's one way to recycle those boxes and be kind to the planet. ~clap, clap, clap

To date, I've used the cereal box insert method on dozens of cards with no trouble at the post office, and no damage to cards... I've even received an insert returned to me in a swap card's envie with the words, "Great Idea" written on it. Hence, my deciding to share the idea with you.

Note: Jerry, that ever patient postal clerk even took the time to locate and photocopy this informative sheet for me.  It's the easiest one to follow that I've seen.  

Let's Polka.... Dot!

Here's another tip actually published with a display of cards I submitted to Stampers Sampler's Take Ten publication (volume 5) -- the same display that featured the Swiss dot ribbon tip:

You can create fun, easy polka dot backgrounds using a pencil eraser, and your favorite ink... My favorite eraser size to use is found on jumbo kiddie pencils, like the ones I remember from kindergarten.

For best results:
- Make sure the eraser has never been used - if it has, you won't get a perfect circle.
- Always test on scrap to get a feel for the amount of pressure required - it will vary ink    to ink, paper to paper.
- Stamp straight down then straight up - don't move the pencil around.
- Re-ink between impressions.
- When finished, clean the ink off the eraser very gently, or the eraser will behave as if it has been used, and next time, you won't get a perfect circle.
- You can use any ink, but pigment or chalk inks work really well.
- Keep one eraser for dark ink, and another for light ones.
- If you use an eraser with "black" ink, dedicate it to that color.
- Check the eraser for cracks before each use - pencil erasers tend to dry out, and if there's crack, you'll get either a line or a void on your polka dot.

Here's a card using the eraser dot background technique:

It is also the smART monthly project, which means detailed directions can be found here, and the stamp sets used -ABC-Birthday Time & WD-167 Celebrate - are featured as smARTworks' Spotlight Special for October.

Scarecrow Contest Update:  No winner so far... Need a hint?  I am a huge multi-tasker, and almost never do only one thing a time.  Hmmm... So, what can she do, and cut rubber at the same time???  (And no, it's not chew gum... ~hee hee)

Tip Of Another Sort

Today's tip is completely off-topic:
~ Make proper nutrition a way of life, eat less, and exercise more ~

Believe me, not doing so has terribly unpleasant consequences, and as the rubber, WD-40 No Shortcuts catalog pg. 26 says,

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going..."

My dad and his heart attack are classic examples --  Doctors had given "Charlie" similar advice for 20 years... Advice unheeded, so now we all get to live with it, and Charlie's life, as he has enjoyed it, is over...  kaput!

Maybe on second thought, this does relate to stamping after all... If you truly love what you do, and you make the effort to take care of yourself, you may be allowed to fully enjoy your passion for many more years to come... 

When you think about it...Ink, paper, and rubber, are a whole lot more fun than needles, oxygen, and pills.

Note: The blogger and her DH have reaffirmed their commitment to heed the advice given.  They may still end up with health issues, but at least they will have done their part.

X-acto-ly!

Whether you use an x-acto knife, Coluzzle, or some other shape cutter with a blade (I love my circle/oval cutter by Creative Memories), here a tip for you:

Replace that self-healing cutting mat with a glass one.

Yes, you read it correctly -- a G-L-A-S-S cutting mat!

It may feel foreign for a couple of times, but very quickly you will find the glass cutting surface makes the cutting process easier, the cuts cleaner, and keeps blades sharper, longer.

Where do you get a glass cutting mat? Here are two inexpensive suggestions:

The Hardware Store -- They will cut it to any size you request.
An Old Picture Frame -- Remove the glass. Discard the frame.

With either of these options you will want to cover the raw (and very sharp) edges with masking tape.

Additional 'Glass' Tips:
*To promote smooth cutting, keep the glass clean.
*Avoid setting the glass on uneven surfaces - if any pressure is then place on top of it, a heart-sinking 'snap' will be heard.
*Do not use the glass mat when setting eyelets.
*For safety sake, when transporting, wrap well or box (I use and old, flat stationery box), and label "Glass" or "Fragile."

Note: I'd like to credit Courtney Ricker, an instructor and stamp designer at Your Maine Stamper for sharing this this tip with me five or six years ago.  It transformed me from being x-acto phobic to x-acto competent.

Packing A Punch - Part 2

Another good way to incorporate the use of punches into stamped artwork, is to create disposable stencils from the negative space created when punching.

I like using an index cards for this... Why?  Index cards are easily punched, a good size with which to work, and quite inexpensive.

Once the stencil has been created, grab a foam dauber and any ink pad, dye or pigment...  Foam daubers allow for an excellent control of application, and produce extremely smooth, even ink coverage.

How to:
1.  Place the punched stencil where desired.
2.  Ink up the dauber by pouncing it onto the ink pad. 
3.  Tap off any excess ink onto scrap paper or paper towel.
4.  Holding the stencil securely in place, pounce the inked dauber into its 'open' areas.
5.  Repeat inking dauber, tapping-off, and pouncing along stencil, until the desired effect has been achieved.
Note:  If a multi-color effect is desired, work colors from lightset to darkest, and change or clean dauber before each new color.

Here's a card made using this technique:

Cardworks:
This is the same card design as shown Packing A Punch - Part 1 (Tripping vs. Tipping) except for two things -- The sponged punch-stencil has been substituted for the punched shapes, and the color of the card's base has been changed.  Other than that, the directions are the same.

Ink used for pouncing - Brilliance Pearlescent Lime 

Tripping vs. Tipping

I know yesterday was Tuesday, but I got a little confused thinking it was 'Trip' Time instead of Tip Time (~wink, wink), so spent the day 'away'.  It was our last family day trip of the summer before school begins next week.

Had confusion not taken over, and sent me off to explore the remarkable fortress known as Fort Knox, located on the scenic Penobscot River in Prospect, Maine, I would have presented -- Packing A Punch - Part 1 -- It would have gone like this...

One way to make the most of your punches is to incorporate them into the background of your card... To do this, simply arrange, then adhere them to the chosen background panel, making sure:

The punches are positioned around and/or under the stamped images.  This places the punches into the design instead of making them the focus or treating them as an accent, and
Portions of the punches are first extended past the edges of the background panel, then cut "flush."  Again, this aids in the illusion that the punches are part of the design, and generally gives the background a more balanced feel.

Here's an example:

Cardworks:
Rock Fern Punch originally by Emagination (now available through Punch Bunch at Scrappily Ever After)
smART Rubber WD-99 Dragonfly (catalog pg. 47) and WD-50 Masterpiece (pg. 28)

Saying, and legs only of dragonfly image, stamped on panel in black and clear embossed.  Dragonfly stamped twice on white stock and colored. One image cut out in its entirety, and the other one, body only.  Wings stamped on vellum, heat embossed with a silvery sparkle powder, cut out, and sandwiched between cardstock cut-outs. Assembled image adhered to card with foam tape.  Punches added as per above tip.  Panel mounted to card.

Presto Change-o!

I previously submitted this tip with a parcel of cards to Stamper's Sampler several years ago, and it was published in their Take Ten publication (Volume V)...

It has to do with customizing B/W Swiss dot ribbon (both grosgrain and sheer varieties):

All you need is a desired color of PERMANENT marker and scrap paper.  Markers which I know will definitely work include Sharpie, Galaxy, Adirondack and Prismacolor...Basically, ones with other than a water base.

To prevent bleed-through damage, place a desired length of ribbon over scrap paper, color each individual 'dot', and allow to air dry. (Drying time varies with brand of marker.)

The black with white dots ribbon, is always a sure thing, but depending on the marker, and the steadiness of your hand, you may also be able to custom colorize other Swiss dot ribbon colors. To find out, just experiment on a short length of scrap.

Should 'bling' be your thing, you can also apply glitter glue to each dot -- This works for ALL colors of the ribbon. Drying time varies, but plan on at least an hour.

For each method of customization, color or bling, DO NOT SPEED DRY WITH A HEAT TOOL!!! Believe me, if you try this, it won't be pretty... 

Punch Perfect

Tuesday's tip is late because I've been sort of naughty... For the first time ever, I had QVC's Craft Fair 'on' all day long...

Now, before you gasp, and utter 'Uh-va!' you really need to know it isn't as if I just sat there with the phone in one hand, and a bag of bon bons in the other... In fact, I was busy the entire time mass-producing twenty-two cards, writing notes, and addressing envelopes -- In essence, catching up on my hideously late August correspondence...

So, what does all this have to do with a tip for the week?

Well, one of the steps in my card making process, was to assemble a punch accent, of which one layer had been punched from vellum. ~GRRrrrrr!  That beautiful, but frustrating vellum!!!  Took me four or five botched, torn, and ragged-edged punch-outs, then I remembered this:

Before punching through vellum, always sandwich the vellum between two pieces of heavier paper (i.e. regular copy paper)...

Believe me, it makes a HUGE difference, and improves the outcome one hundred per cent!

Note: Yes, of course, you can use lightweight cardstock, but unless you actually want the cardstock punch-out, copy paper is a whole lot cheaper.